Dr. Robert Young, one the state’s leading dermatologists, says two things can save your skin from winter wear.
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By far the two most important principals of how to care for your skin during the winter months are moisturizing and sun protection. Almost all of us pay much too little attention to these most important factors during the winter months. These are both especially important when one lives in a high elevation area and/or a naturally dry climate such as in and around the mountain west. If someone is also going to enjoy the many outdoor activities available here in the winter such as skiing, snowmobiling, ice fishing, etc. it is of utmost importance.
Let’s discuss moisturizing your skin. First, it is very important that you are not doing anything extra besides what Mother Nature may be doing to dry out your skin during these most drying months of winter.
Most of us enjoy long, hot showers in the winter but this causes a “radiator effect” and helps contribute to a net water loss from your skin surface. It is best to have our showers be just warm enough to be comfortable and just long enough to complete your mission.
<>It is just as important to not use a soap that may also contribute to the problem of dry skin by acting as too much of a detergent and stripping off too much of the natural moisturizing oils that nature gave us as a natural defense against the elements. I tell my patients the nearly pure soaps such as regular “Ivory” and many of the inexpensive generic and/or store brands are best avoided. Generally speaking, the moisturizing lotion-like body washes are gentler. I have no economic conflicts of interest when it comes to my most commonly recommended products and these include but are not limited to; “Dove,” “Tone,” “Basis,” “Neutrogena,” “Olay,” “Purpose,” “Cetaphil,” and “CeraVe.”
For those with very dry facial skin, I like to recommend “Albolene” Moisturizing Cleanser. It can very effectively remove make-up without stripping off too much of our natural moisturizers. Most of us may have the impression that washing our faces often and vigorously will help prevent acne. Nevertheless, this has scientifically been proven to be a false notion.
Think of your skin as if it were a barrier made up of bricks (epidermal cells) and mortar which is non-cellular glue-like filler which connects and fills in between the cells near the surface and is made up of glycoprotein and lipids. Cold, dry air and wind act to cause disruption to this natural filler/glue (as does chronic wet/dry cycles of frequent hand washing.) When this happens the “Saran Wrap” type of covering and protection which Mother Nature conceived our skin to be, now becomes more like a cheese cloth type of covering as microscopic cracks begin to form in our skin surface.
This situation as described above than leads to most of the problems we associate with skin in the winter. “Winter Itch” is an especially common condition usually affecting the hands and lower legs (but can easily been experienced everywhere on the skin of swimmers, athletes, the elderly, and those who enjoy the hot tub too frequently.)
Along with the suggestions above it is critical to protect your skin from the elements. Appropriate clothing (including gloves) is a “no brainer” but moisturizers can be even more important in some cases.
The basic principals when choosing a product are “the thicker the better.” Lotions are certainly more cosmetically acceptable and less expensive but need to be applied more frequently and usually contain alcohol and fragrances that can exacerbate the problem. Creams are better because they lubricate and protect the skin better and require application less often. Many times ointments can be the best of all for all of the same reasons that creams are generally better than lotions. One tip though, if you are using an ointment and it remains sticky against your clothing, you are applying it too thickly and this is not necessary.
My favorite moisturizing recommendations mirror the products listed above as washes. One of my favorite moisturizers for extremely dry hands is “Cutemol” cream and the best way to use this is to leave your hands just a tiny bit wet after washing and then applying the tiniest bit of “Cutemol” and rubbing it into the skin for 30 seconds or so while it emulsifies with the residual water and traps it into your skin. When applied properly it is not greasy and very inexpensive. If your pharmacy doesn’t carry it they can either order it by the single jar or you can call 1-800-533-SKIN. For those with severely dry skin, products (both over-the-counter and prescription versions are available) with Urea or Lactic Acid can be exceptionally helpful (especially for “Winter Itch” on the legs and body.)
After moisturizing, protecting the skin from UVA (Ultra Violet-A) rays from the sun and tanning booths is critical. Most typical sunscreens protect from UVB associated sunburns but fall far short from protecting from UVA (this includes most sunscreens within make-up.)
UVA protection is important because it is associated with most all types of skin cancer. It penetrates deeper into the skin and decreases the skin’s natural immune system while at the same time increases fine lines, deep wrinkles, and significantly accelerates the facial skin signs of early aging. Many people do not know that it also penetrates through window glass.
When choosing a sunscreen (all year but especially important for skiers and other winter outdoorsmen and women) use the highest SPF (sun protection factor) number and checking the find print ingredient list to make sure that it has one or more of these ingredients: oxybenzone, avobenzone, parsol-1789, meradimate, sulisobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or ecamsule (Mexoryl SX) which has just newly been approved by the FDA.
Please remember that most of us do not apply enough initially and do not reapply it often enough. Some sunscreens ironically break down easily and are no so very “photo stabile.” The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends reapplying sunscreen every two hours and immediately after swimming or heavy sweating. Two of my personal favorites are “Ultra Sheer with Helioplex” by Neutrogena (which also comes in a very nice, light spray,) and “All Day 30” foam by Sea & Ski which is entirely non-greasy and very water resistant.
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Robert P Young, MD
Board Certified Dermatologist
Fellow, American Academy of Dermatology
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